Expecting a Baby Bunny? Key Signs and Care Tips for a Pregnant Rabbit

If you’ve bred your rabbit and are eagerly awaiting the arrival of baby bunnies, it’s important to know what to expect and how to care for your pregnant doe.

Rabbit pregnancy can be a bit of a mystery, especially for first-time breeders, but with the right preparation, you can ensure that your doe stays healthy and comfortable throughout her pregnancy and that her kits (baby bunnies) arrive safely.

How to Tell if Your Rabbit is Pregnant

Unlike some animals, rabbits don’t show obvious signs of pregnancy early on. However, several clues can help you determine if your doe is expecting.

Here are some key signs to look for:

1. Behavioral Changes

Pregnancy can affect your rabbit’s behavior in a variety of ways. Each doe is different, but many will experience some shifts in temperament during pregnancy.

As the pregnancy progresses, your doe may become more withdrawn or territorial. She might not want to be handled or interact as much as usual. This is completely normal, as rabbits are prey animals and instinctively seek privacy when they are carrying young.

On the other hand, some rabbits become more affectionate or clingy when they’re pregnant. They may seek attention or extra petting, or they could exhibit signs of nesting behavior by chewing on hay and other materials to prepare for the birth.

2. Changes in Appetite

One of the more noticeable signs of pregnancy is an increase in hunger. If your rabbit is eating more than usual—especially if she’s consuming larger quantities of her pellet food or fresh vegetables—it may be a sign that she is expecting.

Interestingly, some pregnant does will refuse pellets while still grazing on hay. This behavior can be due to hormonal changes and is completely normal.

3. Palpation (Day 15–20)

Palpation is a technique where you gently feel the doe’s belly to check for the presence of kits (baby bunnies). This is most effective around days 15 to 20 of the pregnancy.

You might feel small lumps or balls inside her abdomen, which are the developing kits. However, palpation is tricky and not always reliable unless you’re experienced.

If you attempt to palpate, be extremely gentle. Applying too much pressure can harm the doe or the developing babies. If you’re unsure, it’s safer to avoid palpating and just wait for the other signs to manifest.

4. Nesting Behavior (Around Day 28)

As your rabbit approaches the final stages of pregnancy (around day 28), she will begin exhibiting nesting behaviors. This is a clear sign that labor is imminent.

Your doe will start pulling fur from her own belly and sides to line the nest for her kits. She may also chew on hay or bedding materials in her environment. This behavior typically starts around the 27th to 28th day after mating, right before she’s due to give birth.

Your pregnant rabbit may retreat to a quiet area of her cage or enclosure, where she can prepare a secluded space for birthing. This is an instinct, so be sure to respect her privacy and avoid disturbing her during this time.

5. Body Changes (Late Pregnancy)

While not always easy to notice, some pregnant rabbits will show subtle physical changes in their body, especially as the pregnancy progresses.

As the pregnancy moves forward, the doe’s belly may start to appear more rounded or distended. This is often more noticeable in the later stages of pregnancy, closer to day 28.

Around days 15 to 20, you may notice that the doe’s abdomen feels tighter than usual. This is due to the developing kits inside. However, this can be difficult to detect unless you are familiar with the feeling of a pregnant rabbit.

6. Sudden Weight Gain

Pregnant rabbits often gain weight during their pregnancy. You may notice that your doe’s weight increases, though the amount can vary. Weight gain typically occurs during the second and third weeks of pregnancy, but it’s not always a reliable indicator on its own.

Preparing for the Big Day: Nest Box Setup

Once you’ve confirmed that your rabbit is pregnant, it’s time to start preparing for the birth. One of the most important aspects of this preparation is setting up the nest box. The nest box will provide your doe with a safe, private space to give birth and care for her kits.

The ideal time to place a nest box in your doe’s cage is around day 28 of her pregnancy, or approximately two days before her due date. This allows her to begin the nesting process and prepare for the birth.

Choosing the Right Nest Box

A nest box for rabbits doesn’t have to be complicated, but it should meet a few key criteria to ensure safety and comfort for both the doe and her kits.

1. Size Matters

The nest box should be large enough to allow your doe to comfortably fit inside but not too large that it’s difficult for her to keep the babies contained. Aim for a box that’s about 12 inches wide, 12 inches tall, and 18 to 24 inches long. This provides enough room for the mother to move around, but it’s still cozy enough for the babies to feel secure.

• Tip: Ensure the box has a lip or rim at the front, which will prevent the babies from rolling out of the box once they start moving around.

2. Material

Nest boxes can be made from various materials, but plywood is a durable and safe choice. The box should also have a wire bottom, such as 1/4-inch by 1/4-inch hardware cloth. This allows urine to pass through and prevents moisture from accumulating, which could lead to bacteria or mold growth.

• Avoid materials like cedar or untreated wood, as they contain oils that can be harmful to your rabbit’s respiratory system.

3. Adding Insulation

If you’re raising rabbits in cooler climates, such as during the winter, you may want to add some insulation to the nest box. Cold temperatures can be dangerous for baby rabbits, so ensuring they stay warm is essential.

• Cardboard can be used to line the bottom of the nest box for extra warmth. It will help prevent cold air from seeping up into the box and chilling the kits.
• You can also add a layer of soft bedding, like kiln-dried pine shavings, but avoid overpacking the box. Your doe will likely rearrange it herself.

4. Bedding Materials

Rabbits are excellent at creating their own nests. After placing the nest box in the cage, your doe will begin to pull fur from her belly to line the box, which is completely natural. If she hasn’t started pulling fur by the time you place the box, you can add a little bit of soft hay or straw to encourage her.

• Hay is important for bedding because it’s soft and provides warmth and comfort. Make sure to use clean, dust-free hay to prevent respiratory issues.
• Kiln-dried pine shavings are also a good option, but avoid using cedar, as it can be harmful to rabbits.

You’ll notice that your doe will probably rearrange the bedding to her liking, and that’s perfectly normal. She will create a soft, insulated nest to make her and her kits comfortable during the birth.

Positioning the Nest Box

The nest box should be placed in a quiet, secluded part of your rabbit’s cage. Rabbits are prey animals, so they will prefer a calm and private environment when giving birth.

• Avoid placing the box in a high-traffic area where she could feel stressed or disturbed.
• The best place is typically a corner of the cage where she has plenty of space to retreat into, but not too much room where the kits could get lost.

Make sure the nest box is secure and won’t tip over easily. You don’t want it to roll or shift, as that could disrupt the birthing process.

Preparing the Cage

In addition to the nest box, it’s essential to ensure that your doe’s cage is ready for the big day. Here are a few things to check:

1. Clean the Cage

Before placing the nest box inside, clean the cage thoroughly. Remove any old bedding, food, and debris, and replace it with fresh bedding. This will create a clean environment for the birth and reduce the risk of infections.

2. Add Extra Hay and Water

Ensure that your doe has unlimited access to fresh hay and fresh water at all times. Hay is essential for her digestion, and she may be eating more than usual, so keeping it in ample supply will help ensure she stays nourished.

3. Monitor for Signs of Labor

After the nest box is in place and the cage is prepared, watch for signs that your doe is about to give birth. Look for her to start pulling fur and nesting more intensively. She might also isolate herself in the corner of her cage, refusing food and water.

Once she starts preparing her nest, keep her cage quiet and avoid unnecessary disturbances.

What to Expect During the Birth

When the time comes, the birthing process will typically take between 30 minutes to 1 hour. The doe will give birth to a litter of baby bunnies (kits), which are usually born blind and hairless. Afterward, she will care for them by licking them clean and ensuring they latch onto her for nursing.

As hard as it might be, avoid disturbing the doe during the birth process. Rabbits are prey animals and can become very stressed when they feel observed or threatened.

If everything goes well, she will take care of the kits on her own. You can check on them the following day, but keep your interactions minimal during the first 24 hours to give the mother and babies the space they need.

Post-Birth Care for the Doe and Kits

Once the kits are born, your role shifts to ensuring that both the doe and her newborns are healthy and well-cared for. Here’s a comprehensive guide to what you should do after the birth.

1. Monitoring the Doe’s Health

After giving birth, the doe will need extra attention and care to make sure she stays healthy and can care for her babies effectively.

The doe’s appetite will likely increase as she needs extra energy to care for her newborns. Make sure she has unlimited access to fresh hay and water, along with pellets if she’s eating them. Her calorie intake should be sufficient to support milk production for her kits.

Occasionally, a doe may experience health issues after giving birth. Some common concerns include:

• Mastitis (inflammation of the mammary glands): If the doe seems uncomfortable or you notice any redness, heat, or swelling around her nipples, it could be a sign of infection.
• Retained Placenta: If the placenta hasn’t been expelled after birth, it can lead to infection. Make sure you monitor her closely in the days following birth and check for any abnormal discharge.

If you notice anything unusual, such as the doe refusing to eat or drink, acting lethargic, or showing signs of infection, contact a vet as soon as possible.

2. Feeding the Kits

Newborn kits depend entirely on their mother’s milk during the first few weeks of life. The doe will nurse her kits once or twice a day, usually during the early morning or late evening hours. You may not always witness the nursing sessions, as the doe will nurse the kits quickly and in private. If the kits are growing and gaining weight, then the doe is feeding them well.

After birth, check the kits for signs of health. Healthy kits should have round bellies and be able to move around the nest within a few hours. If you notice any kits with visible issues (such as failure to thrive, being unusually small, or not moving), it’s important to consult a vet.

Try to avoid picking up or disturbing the kits for the first few weeks unless there’s a problem. Excessive handling can cause stress to both the doe and the babies. If you need to handle them (for example, to check for health issues), make sure you do so gently and briefly.

3. Nest Box Maintenance

The nest box is your doe’s and the kits’ primary space for the first few weeks, so keeping it clean while not disturbing the rabbits is essential.

While it’s important to maintain cleanliness in the cage, try not to clean the nest box or interfere with it too much. Once the kits are about two weeks old, you can begin cleaning out old bedding and replacing it with fresh materials, but always be gentle and avoid disturbing the kits too much.

You may need to add more hay or pine shavings to the nest box periodically. Be mindful not to overwhelm the kits with too much bedding, as this could cause them to become buried.

5. Gradual Introduction to Solid Food (For the Kits)

Around 3–4 weeks old, the kits will start to develop teeth and will begin nibbling on hay and solid foods. This is a gradual process, and you should introduce them to fresh vegetables and rabbit pellets slowly.

Offer small amounts of soft hay, like alfalfa, and introduce fresh greens such as romaine lettuce or parsley. Don’t feed them too much at once—small amounts several times a day is ideal.

Watch to see how the kits are eating and if they’re able to chew and digest the food. If they seem hesitant, continue to let them nurse from their mother until they are ready to eat more solid foods.

6. Handling the Doe and Kits Post-Birth

After the birth, give the doe and kits plenty of space to bond. The doe will likely stay in the nest box for the first week, nursing and grooming her babies. Handling the kits during this time is discouraged as it can stress both the doe and the babies.

After the first few weeks, the kits will start to explore and become more independent. By around 6 weeks, the kits will be ready to start weaning and can be separated from the doe if necessary.

7. Preparing for the Future

As the kits grow and mature, you may want to start thinking about their future homes. Rabbits generally do best when housed in pairs, but it’s important to wait until they’re old enough to be safely introduced to other rabbits. Keep in mind that male kits should be separated from the females at around 8 weeks to prevent unintended pregnancies.

Once weaned, the kits can be placed in separate enclosures or homes, depending on your plans for breeding or adoption.

In conclusion, caring for a rabbit and her newborn kits is simple if you focus on providing a clean, safe environment and keeping them well-nourished. Keep the area calm and quiet, avoid handling the mother too much, and check on the babies regularly. With proper care, both the mother and her kits will be healthy and happy!